Brendita's Blog

I go to see my hair stylist every 3 months for a haircut, because I don't like the way "big" hair looks on me. When my hair was shorter, I was able to go 4 months before needing a hair cut. Now that it's longer, I have to see her more frequently to keep it looking the way I like. She cuts "in" instead of "up" if that makes sense. It's a special cutting/styling technique that she's been doing for 18 years. There are several salons that specialize in cutting curly hair, using this technique. If you're interested, you can find a stylist or salon by Googling "Curly Hair Cut" along with your city, state.

I've been watching her in the mirror for 6 years and I still have NO idea how it's done! She lifts small, individual sections of hair and goes to work. When she's done, my curls hang better and my hair is a lot less bulky. She rarely cuts my ends because they're usually pretty healthy: I keep them moisturized, to prevent splitting and breakage. If your goal is to grow long hair, it's very important that you take care of your ends. They are the oldest part of your hair, so they can be very fragile. Once your ends split, they can't be repaired and must be cut. Hair grows approximately 1/2 an inch per month, so if you have to keep trimming damaged and split ends, you won't see any increase in length. Let's say you have to trim your ends every 3 months. Your hair will have grown 1.5 inches, but if you have to cut off 1.5 inches of damaged hair, you won't gain any length.

The rest of your hair needs moisture, too. The scalp produces a substance called sebum. It lubricates the hair as it travels down the length of each strand. The spirals and curls of afro textured hair sometimes slow down or prevent this substance from working it's way down the entire length of each strand. This is why it is important and necessary to manually moisturize the hair. Water alone can't provide this essential moisture: It just wets the hair. here's a video I made to demonstrate this:



Using water to moisturize your hair and then "sealing" it with oil makes sense in theory, but in reality, it simply doesn't work. No oil, vegetable or man made, can provide enough of a barrier to keep water from evaporating from the surface of the hair. Wetting your hair every day to moisturize it can end up increasing dryness: As the water evaporates from your hair, so does some your natural oils.

Instead of water, use aloe vera juice or a moisturizing mist that contains it. It's a great source of long lasting moisture because it coats and protects the hair. It also gives your hair internal weight, which prevents frizzing. It's also heavier than water, so it doesn't evaporate as quickly. That means, your hair will stay moisturized longer. If you're going to use pure aloe vera juice, remember that it must be kept in the refrigerator. If your hair is prone to dryness, you should also apply a lightweight oil or a leave in conditioning lotion or cream, after your mist, to keep the moisture in and protect and strengthen your hair.

A lot of women believe that their hair simply can't grow past shoulder level. Again, every one's hair grows, on average, about half an inch per month. If your hair length won't get past shoulder level, it probably means that it's breaking off due to the friction of your hair against your shoulders/clothing. To get past this "sticking point", try wearing your hair in styles that keep the ends from rubbing against your shoulders. After a few months, your hair will have grown past your shoulders, so it will be less likely to rub across your shoulders and break. Keep in mind that long hair means older hair, so you have to do regular deep conditioning treatments to keep it strong and healthy. The regimen you used when your hair was shorter may need to be updated.

There are no magical potions or products that will speed up the rate at which your hair grows. The key to long hair is stopping breakage and the only way to do that is with a good, sound and regular hair care regimen:

• Keep your scalp clean and healthy so that the pores can release sebum
  
• Keep your hair clean so it can absorb moisture and stay pliable, healthy and resist breakage
  
• Do regular deep conditioning treatments to revitalize and strengthen hair, especially older hair (at the ends)
  
• De-tangle gently, yet thoroughly to avoid breakage.
  
• Find the products that work right for your hair.

If you have afro textured or super curly hair, you should only detangle your hair when it's wet or after applying conditioner. The only time I comb my hair is in the shower, after I've shampooed, finger combed (to remove any tangles) and applied conditioner. I put it up in a bun every night so that it doesn't get tangled as I sleep. I also sleep on a stain pillowcase, so that my hair slides across the material. Cotton pillowcases tend to "grab" hair and, some believe, rob hair of moisture.

Everyone's hair has different needs and requirements, so you may have to experiment to find out which products work best for your unique hair type. Our hair needs different things at different times: Weather, age, hormones all affect how our hair will behave, so you'll have to tweak and adjust your regimen accordingly.

My hair has never been as long as it is now (to my shoulder blades when I stretch it) and I'm curious to see just how long it will get. I know that it grows at the average rate, because my grey roots are my "marker". I like to wear it out, but I think I may take my own advice and wear it up for a few months so I can see how long it will get. I'll keep you posted on the details!

Natural afro-textured hair has been described as curly, kinky and ( GASP!!) nappy. Growing up, most of my friends and classmates’ hair was either thermally straightened with a hot comb or chemically straightened with a relaxer. I begged my mother to straighten my hair! She finally gave in when I was 13 years old. I continued to get it relaxed for 13 more years, but I’ve been wearing it in its natural state for the last 20 years.

Most everyone has seen images, films or clips from the 60’s and 70’s, where Black men and women wore their hair in afros. I’m thrilled to see that natural hair is once again, back in vogue! When I see a young girl wearing the same afro “puff” hairstyle that I wore almost 40 years ago, it literally brings a smile to my face!

It’s wonderful to see other Black women wearing their natural hair in movies, commercials, TV shows and print ads. We have embraced and fallen in love with our hair’s natural texture and realized that it is quite versatile. You don’t just see afros nowadays; we’re rocking a multitude of different hairstyles!

Natural hair get-togethers, also known as “meet ups” are taking place all over this country and maybe in other countries as well. Participants are women who either are already wearing their hair in its natural state or in the process of transitioning from relaxed hair to natural. These events are coordinated to share information regarding natural hair care, including product recommendations and styling techniques. Attendees support one another by sharing their own unique experiences on what is often referred to as their “natural hair journey”. Organizers of these gatherings solicit retailers and ask them to donate products that are good for the health and maintenance of natural, unprocessed hair. These products are then given to participants as raffle prizes and in goodie or swag bags.

On a pretty regular basis, we (Brendita’s Body Works) are contacted and asked to donate products for these meet ups. The requests range from 50 to 100 plus sample sized products to 1 or more full sized products and/or gift baskets. I would love to be able to accommodate each and every one of these requests. However, we are a small company with limited resources.

Most of what used to be our free time is devoted to doing all the work that's involved in running a successful business. We’re really looking forward to the time when we’ll have a larger staff to assist us. Right now, however, we don’t have the time or capacity to honor those kinds of requests.

Judging by the number of requests for donations that we get, I know that the natural hair movement is really gaining momentum and I think that's pretty awesome! Women choose to wear their hair in its natural state for many reasons. Some do it as a fashion statement, while others have serious concerns about using harsh chemicals to alter their hair’s natural texture. Many women are simply tired and unwilling to spend the time and money required to maintain chemically processed hair. It looks like the afro and so many other beautiful natural hairstyles are here to stay!

Mineral oil is a petroleum derivative. It is a by-product of oil refining. It is In addition to being used in a large number of skin/hair care products, it's also added to many iron supplements as a prophylactic for the constipation that usually accompanies increased iron intake.

Unscented "baby oil" is just plain mineral oil. Scented baby oil is mineral oil with a little fragrance or perfume. As far as it being safe for all babies, well, that's kind of misleading. No one can state that any ingredient (natural or otherwise) is unequivocally safe for ALL skin types. Sometimes when people read that a product is safe for babies, they assume that means it must be safe for anyone. I have a SEVERE sensitivity to mineral oil... but I also have sensitivities to a couple of nut & fruit oils.

Cosmetic grade mineral oil forms a waterproof barrier on the skin, so it can prevent dehydration. However, this barrier can also cause the skin's own oil to become trapped within the pore, causing acne to form. This is most likely where mineral oil got its bad reputation for clogging pores. When mineral oil is used in the hair, it can be very difficult to remove without the use of sulphates (SLS) or harsh detergents.

Cosmetic and medicinal grade min oil is very "clean", so I don't believe the scary things I have read about the carcinogens in it. It's considered "natural" by some because it comes from oil (something from the earth). Technically, you could call mineral oil an "all natural" ingredient, but I personally think that such a statement is a great stretch and twist of the definition. Cosmetic companies that use mineral oil do so because it's incredibly cheap and it lasts indefinitely, not because it is superior to other oils, moisturizers, etc. For me, mineral oil is right up there with sulphates: Since there are so many alternatives for both, I choose to play it safe and not use them.

Activated Charcoal is one of my favorite ingredients for both skin and hair care. It is charcoal, made of wood pulp and nutshells, that has been treated and purified with oxygen. One particle of activated charcoal can absorb HUGE amounts of toxins by completely surrounding and enclosing them.

Due to its ability to rapidly surround and trap toxins, activated charcoal is administered orally in emergency rooms to quickly absorb poisons in the stomach before they can get further into the digestive system. It is also recommend that home medical kits include activated charcoal tablets to use in cases of accidental ingestion of toxic substances.

Activated Charcoal is one of the main ingredients in Pore Rich ACES (Activated Charcoal Exfoliating) Masque, Face Off ACES Wild Sulphate Free Cleanser, Phat Head Sulphate Free Clarifying Shampoo and Phat Head Clarifying Conditioner. I became intrigued by it when I learned about its ability to surround debris: It acts like a magnet, drawing debris out from the skin and hair where it can be easily rinsed away. It a great way to gently remove debris and toxins without traumatizing or damaging the skin or hair. I have been experimenting with a formula for a clay based, non foaming shampoo that includes activated charcoal. If I'm successful, you'll certainly be hearing about it soon .

I really like the unique color activated charcoal gives my products. When I first started experimenting with it, I was a little worried that it would leave behind a dark residue. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it rinses away completely, leaving both skin and hair feeling detoxified, fresh and clean.

If you're looking for a gentle and effective way to detoxify your skin and/or hair, look into activated charcoal! I'm sure it will become one of your favorite ingredients, too. !

Knowing the pH level of your hair care products is important because if the level is either too high or too low, the cuticles will be affected. pH refers to the acidity or alkalinity of a substance. The “p” stands for “potential” and the “H’ stands for “hydrogen”. pH can range between 0 and 14; the higher the number, the more alkanline the substance, the lower the number the more acidic the substance. Healthy skin and hair have a pH of about 5.5, so the ideal pH for hair and skin care products is between 4.5 and 6.

When it comes to hair care products, pH levels that are either too high or too low will cause the cuticles of the hair to lift, in an attempt to regulate the ph balance. Raised cuticles give the hair a rough feeling: Imagine running your palm across the scales of a fish (EEEWWW!) in the opposite direction: It would be similar to what hair with raised cuticles would feel like.

Water has a pH level of 7. This is why your hair feels slightly rough after you’ve rinsed out your shampoo: the water has slightly elevated your hair’s pH levels, so the cuticles are lifted. A pH balanced conditioner restores the hair to its proper pH level and smoothes down the cuticles.

Raised or lifted cuticles can easily get tangled upon one another, increasing the possibility of hair breakage. When cuticles on a strand of hair are raised, the hair’s cortex (center) becomes exposed and can be easily damaged from friction. Raised cuticles also allow moisture to escape from the hairs cortex, whereas closed cuticles keep moisture in. Maintaining a proper pH balance in the hair also wards off the growth of fungus, because fungi cannot thrive in a properly pH balanced environment.

Thank you very much, Michele, for asking me about pH levels in hair!

Static electricity has been studied for so long and so thoroughly that there is no doubt as to why it occurs. More recently, scientists have applied this knowledge to understanding how it builds up in hair.

Read the full article on how to get rid of static hair.

Static Hair - How to Stop and Get Rid of Static Electricity Static, flyaway hair is a condition that is much easier to get rid of than most people think. To stop it, you only need to do two things: reduce friction and increase moisture. This may sound like an over simplification but it really isn't. This article explains how static electricity occurs in hair and what you can do to get rid of it.

Here is a step by step guide on creating a two stranded twist.

The two products featured in the video are Phat Head Daily Jojoba Moisturizing Mist and Phat Head Shea Butter Curl Cream. This tutorial is made as a slideshow so that the twists are clearly visible.

Here is a video on moisturizing your hair using humectants.
For more information on the science behind humectants, read : Humectants For Hair - Natural Aloe and Glycerin Moisturizers Work With Humidity To Prevent Frizz.

I have read numerous online articles on how to use water to moisturize hair. The logic is that because water or "aqua" is almost always the first ingredient in hair care products, styling aides, conditioners, etc. it must mean that it's the best moisturizer. This is simply not the case!

Our bodies are made up of 70% water, so it is an essential element for our health and well-being. Water plays a very important role in hair care, too: Wetting the hair is an inexpensive and effective way to soften and loosen the hair prior to combing and detangling. The reason water is the number one ingredient in most beauty products is because it’s the least expensive ingredient for manufacturers to use. It’s also universally well tolerated by everyone, so there’s no need to worry about possible allergic reactions. The plain truth is that water does not moisturize hair: It simply wets it. As soon as it evaporates, any “moistening properties" evaporates with it. I will demonstrate this in an upcoming You Tube video.Your hair also needs emollients to keep it flexible, soft and resistant to breakage. Healthy hair emollients include plant, fruit and vegetable oils and many lightweight nut butters.

How to properly moisturize your hair:

To protect and properly moisturize freshly shampooed and conditioned hair, divide your hair into three or four sections. Place a small amount of Phat Head Silk Sheets Styling Lotion (dry hair), Phat Head Coconut Pudding (extremely dry hair) or Phat Head Whipped Jelly (moderately dry hair) to each section, smoothing the product into your hair, using a downward motion. The downward motion will seal moisture in by encourage the cuticles to lie flat. To moisturize hair in between shampoo/conditioning days, separate your hair into three or four sections. Working on one section at a time, spray your hair with Phat Head Daily Jojoba Moisturizing Mist (dry or extremely dry hair) or Phat Head No-Knots Leave in Moisturizing Mist (moderately dry hair). Either of these products should keep your hair properly moisturized for two to three days. However, if you have very dry hair, you should apply styling lotion, pudding or whipped jelly immediately after you've misted your hair. Remember to apply a little extra product on the ends of your hair, because this is the oldest and most fragile part of your hair and in need of the most moisture. Retain moisture and keep your hair tangle free by securing with a satin covered scrunchee, in a high ponytail (or two, depending on your hair length) before going to bed. The steam from the shower and, possibly, a small amount of your moisturizing mist is all you'll need to "revive it" when you wake up in the morning.

Healthy hair will retain moisture better and longer, so you should make deep conditioning a regular part of your beauty routine.

If your hair is extremely dry and fragile, you should deep condition your hair every week. You will be pleasantly surprised with the way proper & thorough moisturizing your makes your hair look, feel and behave!

Most curly, kinky and/or tightly coiled hair is prone to dryness. This is due to the shape and structure of the individual hair shaft. The natural oils produced by the pores in your scalp have a long way to go to get to the ends of each strand of hair. This means, we have to rely on external sources to lubricate the hair to keep it optimally moisturized and healthy. Often times, the natural oil cannot make its way down to the end of very curly, tightly coiled hair. This can cause buildup of oil on the scalp, leading to blocked pores, dandruff and/or an itchy scalp. A gentle massage of the scalp, using your fingertips, will help the oil on it's journey.

The cuticles of curly hair are raised, which makes it difficult to keep moisture in the hairs cortex (center). Dry hair is very susceptible to breakage because these raised cuticles can easily get tangled on one another, causing knots and often times breakage. There is a solution to this dilemma: Moisturize your hair's cortex with ingredients that provide lasting moisture and seal the cuticles to prevent moisture loss. Healthy, properly moisturized hair as internal "weight" and repels frizz inducing humidity.

Many people think that you need sulfates in your shampoo in order to work up a good lather. But this isn't the case.

Here is a demonstration using my Super Moisturizing Sulphate Free Shampoo, High on Coconut Deep Conditioner, Silk Sheets Styling Lotion and the Hair Therapy Cordless Heat Cap.



Why should you stay away from sulphates?

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, commonly referred to simply as sulphates, sulfates or SLS are a low cost foaming agent found in many shampoos, facial cleansers, and shower gels. They are used in industrial strength cleansers such as car wash soap, engine degreasers and garage floor cleaners because it instantly dissolves grease and oil.

Clinical studies have proven that SLS can be very irritating to both the skin and hair because it strips both of their natural protective oils. The biggest concern about this ingredient, though, is the manner in which it reacts with other ingredients used in skin and hair care products. When combined with many popular ingredients, it forms nitrosamines (nitrates). Nitrates are clinically and scientifically proven carcinogens.

About the products shown in this video:

• Super Moisturizing Sulphate Free Shampoo is free of sulphates and has a pH level of 5.5. It is ideal for curly hair, as well as hair that is dehydrated due to chemical processing (relaxers, perms, bleaching), heat styling, etc. Unlike sulphate free shampoos made with castile soap (which has a pH level between 9.5 and 10), Phat Head Super Moisturizing Shampoo will not cause the cuticles of the hair to swell, feel rough or appear dull. If you have curly hair, this is the perfect shampoo for you!
  
• High on Coconut Deep Conditioner: A restorative, repairing deep conditioning treatment is absolutely ESSENTIAL for healthy hair. Regular or "instant" conditioning does not provide the long term benefits of a deep conditioning treatment. This deep conditioner will restore the moisture and natural oils washed away during the shampoo process.
  
• Silk Sheets Styling Lotion: This revitalizing styling lotion brings your hair to LIFE with a wealth of nourishing, moisturizing and protective botanical ingredients. It moisturizes, conditions, nourishes and protects without buildup.
  
• Hair Therapy Cordless Heat Cap: You don't need to be tied down to an outlet! It's great for deep conditioning because it provides sustained, moist heat and the heat helps the conditioner to penetrate the hair.The Cordless Heat Cap is easy to use. It replaces expensive, bulky hooded hair dryers.